Cappadocia in Every Season

I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve been to Cappadocia. It fascinates me every single time. I’ve visited with my son, with friends, and even for fashion shoots—wandering through its streets over and over again. Whenever a friend visits me from abroad, they always say, “We have to go to Cappadocia!” One of them was Eduardo from Mexico; he showed me photos he had seen on Instagram and said, “Let’s go exactly here.”

Describing the places you’ve seen to someone from another country just feels different. And seeing their excitement makes it even more special. I decided to fly to Nevşehir and rent a car from there. I usually choose to stay in Uçhisar or Göreme. Uçhisar sits on the highest peak in Cappadocia, offering breathtaking views. From there, you can clearly see Uçhisar Castle, Pigeon Valley, and of course, the hot air balloons rising early in the morning.

We followed the balloons from our hotel as they floated along Pigeon Valley. The valley gets its name from the iconic pigeons once raised here. There are hidden caves along the cliffs—definitely worth hiking down and exploring.

After breakfast at the hotel, we headed toward Göreme National Park. Right along the road, you’ll find those famous trees decorated with blue evil eye charms. There are also souvenir shops and charming cafés—perfect for a cup of Turkish coffee. I couldn’t let Eduardo continue the trip without trying one! 😊 When I explained the meaning behind the evil eye, it gave the photos he took a whole new depth.

Göreme National Park never fails to mesmerize us with its stunning scenery of valleys, caves, and fairy chimneys. This is the oldest settlement in Cappadocia and was declared a national park by the Turkish Council of Ministers in 1986. It has since been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site and more recently transformed into an open-air museum.

What makes this park especially significant is that it was one of the earliest settlements of Christian communities. How did they live here? By carving chapels, monasteries, churches, homes, and stables into the soft fairy chimneys, they created spaces for worship and everyday life. The ease with which these volcanic rock formations could be carved made them an ideal refuge.

Landmarks like Saint Barbara Chapel, Saint Basil Chapel, the Nuns and Monks’ Convent, and the Dark, Apple, Buckle, Sandal, and Snake Churches are must-sees for anyone visiting the region.

What fascinated us most was wondering how people managed to live here through such harsh winters. The temperature difference between day and night can be extreme—while it might be 20°C during the day, nights can drop below freezing. Inside the cave rooms, we noticed soot marks on the walls. They used oil lamps for heat, and since the rooms were compact and the fairy chimneys retained warmth well, they stayed comfortable. They kept their animals on the lower level, which functioned as a stable, and lived on the upper floor themselves.

Another open-air museum that left a deep impression on me is Zelve. There’s a structure there the size of an apartment building, and people lived in it until as recently as 1952. The fact that this is such recent history makes it all the more powerful for me. Right in front of it, there’s a communal space where even weddings were once held. What’s fascinating is that a mosque, a church, and a monastery coexist in the same area.

As erosion increased and some of the structures began to collapse, the local population was relocated to Aktepe Village. Today, some of the cave dwellings are closed off to visitors for safety reasons. At the museum entrance, we met a woman selling souvenirs who told us her family once lived in Zelve. And speaking of museums—with a Museum Pass, you can enter almost all of them for free. Because of this recent past, Zelve has a special place in my heart, and I always encourage my friends to visit it.

Cappadocia is one of those rare places where sunrise and sunset truly take your breath away. For sunset, we always head to Kızılçukur (Red Valley), the most famous spot for watching the sky change color. Just a heads-up—it’s not easy to reach without a car. People bring music, have picnics, and often toast the moment with wine made from Cappadocia’s legendary grapes.

For sunrise, I highly recommend Uçhisar because you can also watch the hot air balloons taking off from Göreme. Watching the balloons rise, almost dancing across the sky as the sun comes up, is an unforgettable experience. Some of my most loved photos were taken at that very moment. Depending on the wind, the balloons may float directly above Uçhisar Castle, passing right overhead.

After a full day of exploring, it’s only natural to get hungry—and I highly recommend trying the local specialty: testi kebabı (pottery kebab). If you’re someone who loves chasing down regional flavors, you’ll be licking your fingers clean. You can also stop by local wineries for tastings and choose from a variety of bottles to take home. One of my personal must-haves when I come here is milk-roasted pumpkin seeds. Just ask around—anyone can point you to the best nut shops. And don’t forget to try the peksimet, a crunchy biscuit made from local grapes.

We woke up very early the next morning and drove to Göreme. Watching the hot air balloons take off is always mesmerizing. But here’s a tip: mornings can be extremely cold, so make sure to dress warmly. A few hours later, it’ll warm up quickly and you’ll probably start to sweat—so dress in layers 😊. The roaring sounds of the burners mix with the joyful laughter of the people watching. As the flames light up both the balloons and the sky, don’t forget to capture it all on video.

Driving really comes in handy here. As I mentioned before, the balloons move with the wind, and there are usually two common flight directions: toward Uçhisar/Pigeon Valley or Love Valley. With a car, you can follow the direction and settle in at a good viewing spot for the landing. That morning, we drove to a natural overlook with a panoramic view of Love Valley and watched dozens of balloons float across the sky. It was a dream for my photo archive—absolutely stunning shots.

These vibrant balloons soar over one of the most beautiful landscapes on Earth—and you simply won’t find anything like it elsewhere. In fact, over 60% of all hot air balloon flights in the world happen in Cappadocia, which is exactly why people from all over the globe come here for this unforgettable experience.

So, why do I care so much about Love Valley, also known as Aşıklar Vadisi? Because this valley stretches for 4,900 meters, and it’s perfect for long, scenic walks among uniquely shaped fairy chimneys—no two are the same. Along the way, you’ll pass fruit trees and vineyards, remnants of a once-thriving tradition. Growing grapes is labor-intensive and time-consuming, so sadly, it's a profession that’s slowly fading.

Since hot air balloons often land unpredictably and sometimes damage the vineyards, many landowners have started leasing their land to balloon companies. Unfortunately, that means the vines are often cut down. So if you happen to spot grapes along your walk—go ahead and taste a few while they’re still there.

On our last day, we finally did what we’d been dreaming of—we took a hot air balloon ride. It was an opportunity to see all the places we had explored by car from a completely new perspective: the sky. Cappadocia is a magical place, and rising above the mist to witness the sunrise is nothing short of breathtaking. Seeing over a hundred balloons in the air at once is awe-inspiring.

The one-hour journey passed in the blink of an eye—it truly felt timeless. Up there, everything is silent, except for the occasional burst of flame inflating the balloon. Upon landing, we were greeted with a little surprise: a champagne toast (or local sparkling wine), a beloved tradition in the region. Everyone also received a personalized certificate of participation—a perfect keepsake from an unforgettable memory.

Cappadocia is a place of wonder—stunning, surprising, and captivating in every season. Don’t you want to be part of the magic too?

Birol Bali (@Balibey)